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What ingredients keep hair in tip-top shape? Find out here.
November 11, 2013
By: Philip Pelusi
President
Usually the focus for beauty maintenance is creating lustrous, healthy looking, shiny hair. Beautiful hair and a beautiful hair design in something every client longs for and it’s something we diligently help clients achieve with the right salon services, take-home maintenance products, and client education. But there’s an area related to the hair that is often overlooked and is paramount to a healthy head of hair: the scalp. Creating a healthy scalp is equally important as creating beautiful hair. The scalp must be healthy itself to create a healthy head of hair. There are several areas that we must focus on to create this fit scalp environment: follicle detoxification, dead skin cell exfoliation, oil reduction, sun protection and anti-aging. Yes, because the same principles that apply to anti-ageing of facial skin apply to our scalps. Scalp, and more specifically follicle detoxification is critical to creating a most healthy scalp environment. Not only a clean scalp exfoliated of dead skin cells, debris, and waxy sebum buildup, but also free of DHT, a toxic bi-product of testosterone created through the action of 5-alpha reductase, an enzyme present in the scalp. DHT is thought to be a cause of thinning hair in both men and women because both men and women produce testosterone, and so DHT is a factor in thinning hair for both sexes. Males experience typical male pattern baldness while women experience a diffuse thinning over their entire scalp. DHT is toxic to the follicle and has been shown to reduce the size and ability of follicles to produce mature hairs, and results in the production of fine or “Vellus” hairs. Obviously the protection of the hair follicle and thus the hair strands is paramount to a healthy head of hair. We discovered an innovative way to help remedy this issue by tailoring our Detoxifying Shampoo’s detergent base to include emulsifiers that are used to remove pesticides from fruit and vegetables. As many pesticides resemble hormones, this base gently and effectively emulsifies Testosterone and DHT as well as waxy sebum deposits from the hair and scalp, especially from the follicle, allowing it to prosper in its refreshed environment. We are not doing anything here that alters any bodily conditions or functions that would define Detoxifying Shampoo a drug, only utilizing the DHT-removal capability of our DHT removal complex; and per the definition of a cosmetic, “cleansing and beautifying the body.” Another aspect to a creating and maintaining a healthy, clean scalp is to keep oil build-up at bay. Excess surface oil can trap bacteria, create an unpleasant odor and make hair appear greasy and limp. So in addition to gently cleansing the scalp with a Sulfate-Free Sugar Cane and Sugar Maple fruit acid exfoliating complex, P2 DeTox Shampoo Treatment puts the scalp into ph balance with a natural micro-emulsion of Ivy, Rocket Leaf, Whortleberry and Watercress which help reduce sebaceous oils that would entrap future dirt and debris. The scalp is in soothed and in ph balance and therefore resists the urge to create too much oil. Also because these ingredients are substantive, the scalp retains their power allowing the scalp to also keep scalp less oily over the next day or so helping to keep the scalp remain clear. This Gluten-Free formula also contains scalp enhancing nutrients such as Philip’s exclusive Hydro-Charged Pelusi Ceramide Complex which helps strength and hydrate the scalp and hair of any texture. Dead Skin Cells caused by dandruff, dirt, and product residues can build up on the scalp, causing scalp problems as well. It is important to use products that can be easily removed by shampoo, as this will help prevent build-up in the first place. A clean scalp will also promote good cell turnover and promote a healthy environment for optimal hair growth. Just like anti-aging skin care, exfoliation of the scalp is important to remove dead skin cells from around the follicle and promote a healthy follicle. To help remedy this use an exfoliating pre-shampoo treatment. Hair can appear more youthful and with great body if the scalp is stimulated by exfoliation with this type of product and also by gently brushing the scalp and hair with a soft, smooth-tipped natural bristle brush. Products containing Organic Sugar granules can be massaged into the scalp and brushed through the hair as unlike other exfoliants, sugar granules will not damage hair but are strongly beneficial as sugars can bind moisture deeply within the hair shaft. Massage is a well-known method of stimulating blood circulation and detoxification to create the optimal environment for a healthy scalp. Look for weightless scalp moisturizers Organic Olive Oil, Organic Shea Butter and Organic Sunflower Seed oil. One of the most damaging influences to the scalp is UV Light, or simply put, the sun. UV damage is cumulative so we need to start when we are young. And the scalp is one of the most over looked areas when it comes to sunscreen protection and therefore has been one of the undetected places for Melanoma. Young scalps are delicate and need special protection but baby boomers also need to protect their scalps because they have accumulated a lifetime of UV damage. Their more delicate aging scalps and hair strands need to be kept strong so they can look as healthy and vibrant as possible. The more we age, the more the effects of UV damage are noticeable on the skin and also in the hair fabric. Age spots and dry patches show up more and more as we mature. Hair becomes weaker over time coupled with a brittle, dry feel and lack of style-ability. Products that have an SPF sunscreen rating of 15-18 should be used to protect the fragile scalp. Make sure to apply these products before leaving the house and frequently throughout the day, as with all beach products, the effectiveness of all sunscreens diminishes during the day and during swimming or other water sports and athletic activities. Sunscreens are FDA regulated UV absorbers that specifically protect the skin and are based on SPF numbers that rate a product's ability to protect the skin from UV damage. The SPF protection system covers both UV-A and UV-B portion of the Ultra Violet Spectrum of light and while UV-B protects us against sunburn, it is UV-A protection that guards against skin damage and worse. Look for a greaseless and weightless hair groom that contains an SPF to get the protection you need for your scalp and hair plus the detangling and grooming effects desired. Find one that contains scalp enhancing ingredients like Wolfberry and Ku Shen. We also need to make sure we protect our scalps during the natural aging process. Our skin is less able to ward off the stresses of our environment as we age and this includes our scalps as well. As we age less or no melanin is produced and our hair turns progressively grey. Melanin is nature’s sunscreen and as the hair contains less melanin, our scalps receive less protection from the hair fabric. The telltale signs of an ageing scalp is different from skin, and its inability to support a healthy population of follicles is but one sign. Hair is less voluminous and thinner, and less able to retain the style. Also, the scalp's cell regeneration diminishes making it become thinner and in addition loses its ability to retain the moisture. Look for products that contain Organic Herbs such as Burdock, Horsetail, Red Sage and Sprouted Soy as these all detoxify and exert a positive effect on the scalp health and strengthen hair. For product recommendation and more information contact us at Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi at either [email protected] or [email protected].
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